There is a Season with Molly Parr: A veggie recipe I can’t not share: Garlic-marinated fried zucchini inspired by an ancient Roman Jewish dish
Published: 06-28-2024 12:56 PM |
I go back and forth with sharing this recipe for garlic marinated zucchini. On the one hand, it’s extremely delicious, especially served with some slices of thick sourdough and fresh mozzarella. It takes time to salt, fry, and then marinate, but it’s summer and zucchini is everywhere, so here it is!
Leah Koenig adapted this recipe for her cookbook, “Modern Jewish Cooking,” nearly a decade ago. The recipe, as Koenig explains, is called ”concia,” and is an ancient Roman Jewish dish that marinates olive oil-fried vegetables — typically zucchini or eggplant — to the edge of disintegration in a mix of vinegar, chopped garlic, and fresh herbs. She was so smitten with Roman Jewish cooking that she released a book devoted to the subject this past year called “Portico.” Both cookbooks are wonderful and I recommend them both.
I’m not joking when I say you need a chunk of time, and comfortable supportive shoes for this one. First comes the salting, or sweating, of the squash, just like one might salt eggplant to release some of the liquid. You’ll need a half hour even before you start cooking. The frying takes a chunk of time, too. Give yourself about an hour, because you’ll be frying in batches. Be ready to wipe down your stovetop as well, because the frying in oil causes some splatter. And then comes the marinating, so even more time. Again, I’m asking myself if this is worth sharing, and, yes, the finished product is that good.
Ingredients:
2 lbs. zucchini, cut into quarter-inch slices
Kosher salt
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh basil
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
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3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
Freshly ground black pepper
Directions:
Place the zucchini in a colander, sprinkle with about 2 tablespoons salt, and toss with your hands to coat. Let stand for 30 minutes, then rinse well and thoroughly pat dry with paper towels. Stir together the basil, parsley, and garlic in a small bowl and set aside.
Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan set over medium heat. Working in batches, fry the zucchini, turning once, until softened and lightly browned on both sides, about six minutes total. Transfer half of the zucchini to a shallow ceramic, glass, or Pyrex (not metal) baking dish and top with half of the herb mixture and half of the vinegar. Taste and season lightly with salt, if desired (zucchini should already be salty), and pepper. Repeat with the remaining zucchini, herbs and vinegar.
Let stand at room temperature, basting occasionally with the juices in the baking dish, for at least 30 minutes, or up to two hours, before serving, Serve at room temperature. Store leftovers, covered, in the refrigerator.
Molly Parr lives in Florence with her husband and two young daughters. She’s been writing her food blog, Cheap Beets, since 2010. Send questions or comments to molly.parr@gmail.com.