Daily Hampshire Gazette - Established 1786
Cloudy
32°
Cloudy
Hi 34° | Lo 25°

‘Black magic’: Cooking with bubbling brown butter

  • Easy Linguine with Scallops and Brown Butter is a comforting, homespun dish that can be made in minutes. (Renee Brock/Atlanta Journal-Constitution/MCT)<br/><br/>

    Easy Linguine with Scallops and Brown Butter is a comforting, homespun dish that can be made in minutes. (Renee Brock/Atlanta Journal-Constitution/MCT)

    Purchase photo reprints »

  • This recipe of Linton Hopkins' Brown Butter Creamed Winter Greens is the handiwork of the James Beard Award-winning chef of AtlantaÕs Restaurant Eugene and Holeman & Finch. (Renee Brock/Atlanta Journal-Constitution/MCT)<br/><br/>

    This recipe of Linton Hopkins' Brown Butter Creamed Winter Greens is the handiwork of the James Beard Award-winning chef of AtlantaÕs Restaurant Eugene and Holeman & Finch. (Renee Brock/Atlanta Journal-Constitution/MCT)

    Purchase photo reprints »

  • Easy Linguine with Scallops and Brown Butter is a comforting, homespun dish that can be made in minutes. (Renee Brock/Atlanta Journal-Constitution/MCT)<br/><br/>
  • This recipe of Linton Hopkins' Brown Butter Creamed Winter Greens is the handiwork of the James Beard Award-winning chef of AtlantaÕs Restaurant Eugene and Holeman & Finch. (Renee Brock/Atlanta Journal-Constitution/MCT)<br/><br/>

Butter has to be one of the hardest-working ingredients in the Western larder. It makes cakes tender and sauces silken. It’s a splendid spread all by itself. It’s a reliable fat for pan-frying foods that cook quickly.

But heat it too long, and its milk proteins and salts will start to burn. Some call that brown butter. I call it black magic.

Cooking with brown butter is like listening to Billie Holiday; it adds depth, flavor, mystery and just a shade of burn. Plain butter — well, that’s Doris Day on a warm sunny afternoon.

I have been using brown-butter variations to sauce fish and vegetables for years. A hazelnutty brown-butter sauce — “beurre noisette” in French — goes very well with soft-shell crabs, skate wings, clams and all manner of delicate white fish. Ditto for asparagus, green beans, cauliflower, squash and mushrooms. In just a few minutes, brown butter will turn a plain pasta or chicken dish into something elegant, something luxurious.

Not long ago, I began to discover the pleasure of brown-butter baking. First, a simple pound cake. Then a little experimenting with brown butter in other cakes. Soon, I started to notice brown butter in all kinds of dessert recipes — from Rebecca Lang’s Brown-Butter Coffeecake with Peaches and Blueberries (from “Around the Southern Table”) to Sheri Castle’s Browned Butter Peach Upside-Down Cake (“The New Southern Garden Cookbook”).

“Brown butter is pretty much like butter-plus, butter as an overachiever,” says Cynthia Wong, who recently left her job as executive pastry chef at Empire State South in Atlanta to move to London.

“Just the simple act of cooking it until it browns brings out all these wonderful toasted nut and caramel flavors, and even a bit of a savory edge. It adds a depth of flavor I liken to getting a really beautiful crust on a grilled steak.”

As I put out a call for sweets made with brown butter, friends started telling me about their brown-butter oatmeal cookies; apple cake with brown-butter/cream cheese frosting; and buttermilk pecan pie with brown butter.

And hey, did you see that recipe for winter pear cake with pistachios and brown butter? Wong turned me on to her rich, dense cake of brown butter, apples and toasted pecans. She says her husband calls it “hiking cake,” because you could survive on it for days — should you lose your way in the forest. It calls for steeping a vanilla bean in hot brown butter and yields a batter that is worth eating like ice cream. If you don’t like it, take a hike.

Related

Recipe: Cynthia Wong’s Brown-Butter Hiking Cake With Apples and Pecans

Thursday, March 28, 2013

Serves 10-12 You could leave off the glaze and still have a very handsome and delicious sweet. Pears may be substituted for the apples. 3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon kosher salt 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon 12 ounces butter, cubed 1 vanilla bean 2 cups granulated sugar 3 eggs 2 cups peeled and thinly sliced …

Recipe: Linton Hopkins’ Brown-Butter Creamed Winter Greens

Thursday, March 28, 2013

Serves 6-8 For the Béchamel sauce: 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 2 cups whole milk 2 tablespoons minced shallot 1 small bay leaf 6 black peppercorns For the greens: 6 ounces slab bacon, rind trimmed 4 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 cup finely chopped onion 3½ pounds baby winter greens (such as collards, mustard greens or kale), stemmed …

Recipe: Easy Linguine With Scallops and Brown Butter

Thursday, March 28, 2013

Serves 4 Make it a vegetarian entrée by substituting blanched vegetables (such as asparagus or cauliflower) for the scallops. 16 ounces linguine (may use spaghetti, angel hair, fettuccine or other pasta of choice) 6 tablespoons butter 12 large sea scallops (about 1 pound), chopped into quarters 1½ tablespoons minced garlic 2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice 1 cup toasted breadcrumbs …

Legacy Comments0
There are no comments yet. Be the first!
Post a Comment

You must be registered to comment on stories. Click here to register.