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A Wine to Try: 2011 Giovanni Almondo Roero Arneis ‘Bricco delle Ciliegie’

The 2011 Giovanni Almondo Roero Arneis 'Bricco delle Ciliegie' is a stunning Arneis from Giovanni Almondo in the Roero region of Piedmont. It wafts the scents of ripe pears, melons and flowers from the glass. (Kirk McKoy/Los Angeles Times/MCT)

The 2011 Giovanni Almondo Roero Arneis 'Bricco delle Ciliegie' is a stunning Arneis from Giovanni Almondo in the Roero region of Piedmont. It wafts the scents of ripe pears, melons and flowers from the glass. (Kirk McKoy/Los Angeles Times/MCT) Purchase photo reprints »

A WINE TO TRY

2011 Giovanni Almondo Roero Arneis ‘Bricco delle Ciliegie’

Piedmont, Italy

About $18

Rich and fragrant

Goes with: Fresh mozzarella, grilled fish, summer soups and pasta dishes

This is a stunning Arneis from Giovanni Almondo in the Roero region of Piedmont. And to think this grape was once almost extinct. It may be temperamental, but whatever pains must be taken to produce this lovely white are worth it. The 2011 wafts the scents of ripe pears, melons and flowers from the glass. It’s fleshy but lithe, cool-toned and with a vivid minerality. I’d pour it with mozzarella and pea shoots, with summer soups and pastas, and grilled whole fish. It’s a terrific basic that doesn’t cost the Earth. And if you don’t get around to drinking it any time soon, it can wait. Almondo makes a more basic Arneis too, also very good, just lighter and less expensive.

— S. IRENE VIRBILA, Los Angeles Times

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