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As a Belgian IPA should, Triomphe Belgian IPA explodes in the nose with robust yeast, dry fruit and spice. The hops present enough oomph for a muscular backbone. (Bill Hogan/Chicago Tribune/MCT)

As a Belgian IPA should, Triomphe Belgian IPA explodes in the nose with robust yeast, dry fruit and spice. The hops present enough oomph for a muscular backbone. (Bill Hogan/Chicago Tribune/MCT)

A BEER TO IMBIBE

Brewery Vivant’s Triomphe Belgian IPA

What it is: Owner Jason Spaulding, one of the founders of New Holland Brewing, launched Brewery Vivant in 2010 in a historic Grand Rapids, Mich., funeral home.

In the bottle: Triomphe pours hazy amber with a touch of orange color and a thick, creamy head. As a Belgian IPA should, it explodes in the nose with robust yeast, dry fruit and spice. The hops present enough oomph for a muscular backbone, but the star here is the bright, peppery Belgian yeast; together, the elements create a crisp, assertive and complex brew that’s clean enough to appeal even to non-IPA drinkers. Triomphe is an ideal in the relatively new American-Belgian IPA style. It is a hybrid beer that shows the inventiveness and dexterity of craft brewing.

Drink it with: Hearty winter food — stews and meats will both stand up to and complement Triomphe’s hops and zest.

— Josh Noel, Chicago Tribune

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